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Audi is a 1.8 liter four with no cylinder deactivation and was stickered to get 27 mpg on hwy. And I am not complaining about gas mileage...but since the car is new to me and I know the previous owner did the bare min to keep it on the road I just want to make sure I am not missing something...

It is auto but rarely see high speeds. It is a 40 mile commute and I avg about 40 mph with some lights. But again I a comparing it to an older turbo charged vehicle that weighs almost a 1000#'s more that has AWD and is getting similar mpg. Just seems like the Toyota should be able to do much...

OK so I would like a little input on this. A short time ago I picked up a 2004 with about 170k on the clock. After getting it I did a mini tune up; plugs, air filter, oil change and intake gasket. Shortly there after that the primary O2 sensor died and I replaced that. But I have been surprised...

Had something similar on my wifes truck...ended up driving it for 20 miles and it stopped. I think the tolerance stack between rotor, caliper and pad caused the pad to contact even with the piston fully retracted...within a short drive it burned off that pad and was good to go.

If you think he has sludge issues and you try seafoam plan on dropping the oil pan. I also would not run 100 miles, most people that I know that have used it let the car idle with it for a while. The thought was that the viscosity drops too much by adding this and may not properly protect the...

Well I have driven about 300 miles since changing the sensor and the light hasn't returned. The only surprising thing is the gas mileage has not improved at all. Tank prior to change was 30 and this last tank was 30.4. Seems a little low to me, my other ride (2011 Audi A4 1.8 w/ 240k) is getting...

So far so good. Ran over to the auto parts store today for the other car and no check engine light but I will feel more confident when all of the emmisions checks are ready. As a side note...I had borrow an oxygen sensor wrench from a friend, turns out it wasn't deep enough to clear the heat...

Swapped out the sensor and cleared the code. This time when I started it up the sensor output voltage was constantly cycling so I am hopeful all is good now. The senor did have some deposits but given I think it has almost 170k on it I guess that is to be expected.

Finally got a chance to take a closer look at this at lunch and think the sensor is dead. First thing I did was disconnect the sensor from the connector and check the ground. That checked out find with minimal resistance. Then I back probed the sensor connector and reconnected it to the vehicle...

Well I can check the ground pretty easy but if it is carbon build up I will just replace it. Previous owner doesn't remember changing it and it has 160+k so it is likely about to kick it.

As mentioned above I drove the car to work today, about 40 miles and all seemed good. On the way home...about halfway...the CEL came back. Using the Torque app I pulled the same code plus pending faults P0133 and P2195. I also monitored O2 voltage and found it was pretty constant at 0.2V...

According to Toyota's recall info there are no open recalls...not sure if that means there were no recalls that applied or just none that haven't been addressed. Either way I cleared the code and drove it to work this morning. Again the car seemed perfectly fine. While I didn't look at the O2...

Limp mode or open loop? Never had a car that could be driven normally in limp mode...normally it will drive but has no power...this seemed fine. Anyway...found a link on Toyota's site for recalls...just need to find my VIN.

Yeah...was just hoping to find info more specific to this car and if this is a common failure or if there is something else that commonly throws this code. What has me more concerned is that some referenced an ECM failure as a likely cause...just wondering if this is a real concern.

Finally got past all those misfire codes and got the car registered. Drove it to work yesterday and everything seemed fine. On the way home I stopped to fill it up and shortly after the check engine light came on. Was hoping it was going to be the gas cap but pulled P0134 for no activity on...

Well I think I found it. I disconnected the throttle body from intake and intake from head. As I was pulling it out I noticed something different. Previously I removed the lines from the intake as I removed it...there is one on the backside and it seemed loose. Sure enough that line was off at...

As post below mentions the codes are for random and in each cylinder. In my OP I did mention cross referencing the plug with mfg site and it was listed. Besides in the past when I got the wrong plug I was ok until engine got hot and it started to pull timing....this is a cold start issue. Since...

I guess anything is possible but the hoses are shaped and I only removed one side so I don't think you could mix them up. Also don't think they are related to brakes since the are connected to intake...but maybe I bumped something. I will have to poke around tomorrow and maybe pull the intake...

No codes when getting sniffed...they would have failed it for sure. I just mentioned it since there was another source indicating the cat was working.

Not sure why the OP is bypassing this but it isn't always as easy as you say. At least in my case we replaced the cat and all was well for a few thousand miles...then the CEL came on. Sensor was tested as well as cat...all was fine. We even had to go for a state sniff test and it passed. The...