1998 Corolla Engine compatibility


I have 1998 Corolla with carburetor engine model and it has driven for more than 250,000km. Now I think its time for a new engine. I am planning upgrade the engine to a newer version like 2005 model engine. But some experts says engine will not be compatible.

Guys, any idea regarding this? does anyone did this kind of change?


Originally posted on Toyotanation.com by Noisy-Boy
I have something to add,
ae101 and zze110 chasis is 90% the exact same, fuse boxes, holes for things, connectors for things all reside mostly in the same place. Its been stated that suspension is interchangable, so are engines.
I understand people consider 2ZZGE swap in these because they house a 1ZZ, but for typically at least a third less and almost the same performance a 4AGE blacktop (or 4age of any kind, 4AGZE would be the best alternative) can be done with no fabrication. You need the engine and trans mounts from an ae101(93-97), a windshield washer reservoir from an ae101, and your usual wiring. Exhaust also lines up exactly with the exhaust on the zze110, just keep the downpipe with the header off the 4age, and it will line right up for you or a mechanic to weld. The only other difference is the tachometer, if wired properlly the tach will get signal, but as 1zz has coil over plug and 4age's do not, you will show idle at between 3 to 5000rpm and sit pinned at 8000rpm most of the time. A solution is a cleverly placed tach infront of this on on the cluster for a nice clean non ricer look, or a dash swap from an ae101, which honestly i think would be worth it, because there dashes are so much better anyway. Only downside to a 4age swap in a 110 in North America is Etests, if your district and your year of vehicle only need a tail pipe test, then you are in luck, just make sure you have a cat and you should pass flying colours. IF your car gets etested where u live with OBD2/computer plug in testing only, there will be a problem, as a 4age doesnt care about obd2, and it doesnt have it. It does have OBD1. As will most JDM engines, so if you get your 2zz from japan you could be in the same boat anyway.
Moving on from what should be obvious etesting knowledge, other engines: 4EFTE/Starlet 1.3l turbo motor; Nice and cheap, easy to find, and mounted with a c52 and lSD, its got the strongest C series box, with a boost controller and trickery you can run 16-20psi at 200hp+ pull mid 13`s in the quarter mile and have a daily driver that will make you laugh all day long. Tercel engine mounts are needed, make no mistake, this walks over any 2zz or 4age, enough torque to break tires lose in 1st and 2nd.... and can launch in 2nd gear.
Any S engines, 3sge Beams or 3sgte, pully side rav4 engine mount is needed, use A series engine mounts for the rest, Exhaust will line up, axles from mr2 or 89 Celica GTS. A redtop beams or a 3sgte are also both better candidates than a 2zz, as they are each less work than a 2zz and both much more power. The average Beams Redtop dynos stock around 180-190WHP*. You can also Transverse mount a Beams Blacktop(Dual VVTi motor from ALtezza) with a transverse S engine oil pan, a Beams redtop or greytop intake manifold, and either a beams red/greytop exhaust manifold or any S engine exhaust manifold, with the original blacktop beams Header flange(where it mounts to the head) cut and welded together.
Shifter cables, shifter base, and shifter(stick?) are also all interchangeable pretty much back to an ae82. ae101/ae110 have a shorter throw shifter, but a crappy plastic base, the best combo is the metal base out of an ae92 with the shifter/stick from a 101/110.
Brass shifter bushing are an amazing ZERO flaw upgrade, they dont give any harshness or rough shifting, just precise firm shifts, and feel excelent. You can find them on ebay, look for a brass set for a 02 Celica, they should be less than 10$, virtually ALL Toyota transaxles use the same shifter bushings (C, S, E series)
I use an ae92 GTS fully adjustable seat in my 99 corolla, it has adjustable lumbar and bolster, and is very supporting, and comfortable, highly reccomended over an after market hard as hell bucket racing seat, and the stock seats. Front mounts line up perfect, asside from a small lip needing cut where the trunk release is, and the rear needs the feet cut off original 110 seat, and welded in place of the feet on the ae92 GTS seat. I used vise grips to hold them in place on the seat rails once lined up, and that was pretty much it.
3 Spoke Toyota Sport wheel/Supra/MR2/Altezza wheel. It can be sourced from many vehicles, i got mine from a 98 Rav4, not leather, but still incredible, odly my 96 4runner 2 spoke wheel was a straight plug n play swap, but the airbag plug on the 3 spoke sport wheel is different, and will need to be switched on the column end, simple souldering/crimping will do, make sure battery is unplugged many minutes in advance and you do a good job with your connections, its a simple BLUE AND YELLOW< keep blue blue and yellow yellow. OTher then that, horn and mounting the wheel are plug n play.
Folding rear seats are interchangeable between all ae110's, i almost did mine but so far ive decided id rather keep the nice X beam that sits there now.
Thats all i can think of atm...
Remember, if it fit an ae101, or even an older FWD Corolla, there is an incredibly good chance, it fits your 98-02 Corolla
Hi guys. Interesting topic here. I own a 1998 European Corolla E110 1.3L Hatchback and I decided to do some work on it. I’ve been researching information here and there to decide the next move. Options are a 4EFTE swap or go for a more complete conversion with a Celica GT4 3SGTE AWD. I was told that the ST185 is the most compatible for a WRC replica. The ST205 tranny might be too different. I found a complete engine with transmission for about $1600 from the US and to be shipped to Italy would raise costs to €3000. In this case I would go four-wheel-drive but I am aware of the amount of work and costs involved. I heard that going front wheel drive with this engine isn’t satisfying because of its weight and torque on the front wheels. I found the engine and transmission but unfortunately I didn’t find the rest of the parts to complete front and rear subframe and wheel geometry parts conversion. The OEM parts are very expensive and most of them are discontinued. it would also be way too expensive to buy the complete car because it costs at least €25,000.
4efte swap would cost way less even if engines are starting to be hard to find and prices are raising. I am going to buy a 88,000 km engine from a half cut England. 1600 pounds plus taxes and shipment that will raise total to €2800. It’s a lot of money. Consider at least €600 for extra parts and labor.
I would love to know your opinion and maybe you could help me save some money.