Crank Position Sensor Resistance Range

[Youssef]

Hello everyone,
I have been looking for the normal range of my Corolla 2013 CRANK POSITION SENSOR. I tested it yesterday and the readings were: 2170 Ohms when cold and 2630 Ohms when hot. Does that meets the range specified by the service manual of this model. Please help if you have any idea. Thank you very much.

 

[beach bum]

What is the engine doing? normal range is 200 to 300. Some say 500 but I find that hard to believe. Also check the line and cap going into the sensor prongs. A lot of time engine heat makes them brittle and they won't properly relay. Are they clean? A hot sensor will cause stalling. I only ever had to change one because of a crack.

 

[Youssef]

What is the engine doing? normal range is 200 to 300. Some say 500 but I find that hard to believe. Also check the line and cap going into the sensor prongs. A lot of time engine heat makes them brittle and they won't properly relay. Are they clean? A hot sensor will cause stalling. I only ever had to change one because of a crack.

Thank you very much Sir for sparing some time to help.
The problem is that my car when cold in the morning it starts right away. But after parking for like an hour it takes like more 5 or 6 seconds cranking. I have been looking for the causes of such hard start and many say it crank sensor. I started with changing battery, cleaning MAF, replacing fuel filter, replacing sparks, replaced air filter, yet the problem is always there when the temperature of the engine is between 30s and 50s. I removed crank sensor and tested when cold it just read 2170 ohms then reinstalled it and started the engine till its hot and it read 2630 ohms.

 

[beach bum]

Youssef

I was a Nissan Guy until the bottom of my Sentra rusted out in 6 years, so my experience with Toyota is limited and will be since mine is a 2017 and will be the dealers problem. A Nissan also had a Camshaft Sensor and the two must be in sinc for proper engine function. The two are identical and so are their ohm ratings. Check various web sites as to where to find it, but with a little visual inspection and logic you will find it if it is there.

I'm wondering if the engine is starved for air when you try to do a warm start. I ask this because I had an Oldsmobile V8 years ago with a two barrel carb, and when you turned it off for a quick errand and returned sometimes the engine would be hard starting or wouldn't start at all because the chock had slammed shut starving the engine of air. If you opened the chock and put an Ink pen down the throat to keep it open it fired right up. Like I said it didn't happen all the time, and mine wasn't the only Olds that did it. I had a similar problem in a Nissan Maxima with fuel injection. The throttle body would do the same thing, and the dealer fixed it under warranty by replacing a part on the throttle body the name of which eludes me. Check your air intake and clean everything with a good quality cleaner. I hope this is of some help. Like I said before, I'm a shade tree mechanic and no expert. There is a Toyota Tech on the forum who uses the name gmantran , and I'm positive he can help much more than I can

 

[Youssef]

Youssef

I was a Nissan Guy until the bottom of my Sentra rusted out in 6 years, so my experience with Toyota is limited and will be since mine is a 2017 and will be the dealers problem. A Nissan also had a Camshaft Sensor and the two must be in sinc for proper engine function. The two are identical and so are their ohm ratings. Check various web sites as to where to find it, but with a little visual inspection and logic you will find it if it is there.

I'm wondering if the engine is starved for air when you try to do a warm start. I ask this because I had an Oldsmobile V8 years ago with a two barrel carb, and when you turned it off for a quick errand and returned sometimes the engine would be hard starting or wouldn't start at all because the chock had slammed shut starving the engine of air. If you opened the chock and put an Ink pen down the throat to keep it open it fired right up. Like I said it didn't happen all the time, and mine wasn't the only Olds that did it. I had a similar problem in a Nissan Maxima with fuel injection. The throttle body would do the same thing, and the dealer fixed it under warranty by replacing a part on the throttle body the name of which eludes me. Check your air intake and clean everything with a good quality cleaner. I hope this is of some help. Like I said before, I'm a shade tree mechanic and no expert. There is a Toyota Tech on the forum who uses the name gmantran , and I'm positive he can help much more than I can

 

[Youssef]

Thank you very much Sir. I really appreciate your generosity and kindness. I will go for cleaning throttle body and sth called air idle control valve as i heard from many that it can go dirty and block air. Anyway, thanks once again, i will be back once i fix this issue to share the experience with as many as possible. By the way here is a link to the sort of stalling that occurs when it's warm on youtube.

. Sometimes cranking extends more longer than shown here.

 

[Youssef]

Thank you very much Sir. I really appreciate your generosity and kindness. I will go for cleaning throttle body and sth called air idle control valve as i heard from many that it can go dirty and block air. Anyway, thanks once again, i will be back once i fix this issue to share the experience with as many as possible. By the way here is a link to the sort of stalling that occurs

 

[beach bum]

If the throttle body isn't the problem, and it obvious that gasoline supply isn't. The only other thing it can be is electrical. Somewhere in the system a wire is cracked but making contact, and he degree of contact determines how much power it is delivering. In older models it wasn't uncommon to have a crack in a coil. When the car was cold it worked well, but as it heated up the crack expanded causing trouble such as hard starts when warm. Since you have position sensors there is no distributor cap or internal step up coil, and I don't believe one coil over plug could cause the trouble unless two or more are bad. I'm just throwing ideas out here. I don't know if corollas have any other coils other than the ones in the spark plug cable. Let us know

 

[Youssef]

If the throttle body isn't the problem, and it obvious that gasoline supply isn't. The only other thing it can be is electrical. Somewhere in the system a wire is cracked but making contact, and he degree of contact determines how much power it is delivering. In older models it wasn't uncommon to have a crack in a coil. When the car was cold it worked well, but as it heated up the crack expanded causing trouble such as hard starts when warm. Since you have position sensors there is no distributor cap or internal step up coil, and I don't believe one coil over plug could cause the trouble unless two or more are bad. I'm just throwing ideas out here. I don't know if corollas have any other coils other than the ones in the spark plug cable. Let us know

Thank you dear,
I am really confused about this. I checked throttle it shining no dirt is there. One thing i did is when i tested crank sensor i cleaned it with a carburetor spray and since then long cranking disappeared only stalling is what remains. Thanks anyway, we will wait and see if we can fix this. By the way one of the strange things is that when i disconnected crank sensor no check engine light came on unlike MAF which triggered check engine light when i disconnected it it.

 

[beach bum]

Youssef

Did you find the problem with the stalling? how many miles and what year is it? When does it stall, at low speed, highway speed, coming to a stop, or while you are idling at a stop? Did you also clean the Camshaft Sensor? Have you checked the fuel pump pressure? After it stalls does it start up without any trouble. Is it an automatic transmission? If it comes to a stop and stalls like a manual when the clutch isn't disengaged it could be a lot up converter solenoid. Does it only stall when warm or when it is cold too?

Troubleshooting without having the car present is almost impossible. If you find the problem please let me know what it was. There is always something to learn

 

[Youssef]

Youssef

Did you find the problem with the stalling? how many miles and what year is it? When does it stall, at low speed, highway speed, coming to a stop, or while you are idling at a stop? Did you also clean the Camshaft Sensor? Have you checked the fuel pump pressure? After it stalls does it start up without any trouble. Is it an automatic transmission? If it comes to a stop and stalls like a manual when the clutch isn't disengaged it could be a lot up converter solenoid. Does it only stall when warm or when it is cold too?

Troubleshooting without having the car present is almost impossible. If you find the problem please let me know what it was. There is always something to learn

Hi Sir,
I have not solved it yet. As to your questions, the car stalls immediately while starting or sometimes cranks longer then starts. Long cranking problem has disappeared as weather maybe has become cold these days. it now has stalling problem only at starting the engine when it warm. But the car s operates efficiently on the road no problem at all. So the problem is only stalling when starting a warm engine or even if the car is under the sun for a couple of hours. It is an automatic transmission car. Model is 2013 Corolla Toyota. Mileage is now 100 000 Kms. The good news is that lately i tried to clean throttle using its special spray and after finishing i decided to check injectors resistance and also check for any leak. TO my surprise one injector was indeed leaking from the side of the rail and the other two are somehow wet. I think O-ring is warn out. Now i am waiting for o-ring part to arrive to replace them all and see if the problem goes away.
Thanks for following. I will be back here with any new news.

 

[Joseph Youssef]

Hello beach bum,
this is to inform you that i have fixed the problem replacing injectors and fuel pump.So hard starting was caused by fuel issues.

 

[beach bum]

Joseph

Great, these new cars can drive you crazy. There is so much to troubleshoot with all the electronics. Hope you have many trouble free Kilometers ahead of you. Thank you for letting me know the problem in the event I encounter it in the future.

 

[Joseph Youssef]

Joseph

Great, these new cars can drive you crazy. There is so much to troubleshoot with all the electronics. Hope you have many trouble free Kilometers ahead of you. Thank you for letting me know the problem in the event I encounter it in the future.

Welcome dear, ya it is really shameful that a car that has run only 100 000 km has problems with injectors and fuel pump. It is too early. Thank you too for being helpful.