Greetings from a 1999 Corolla Owner!

#1
Hi, everyone! Just purchased a 1999 Corolla CE with a 5-speed standard transmission as a car for me to practice the stick shift on since I started to like standard transmissions. The original owners were an old couple, and they maintained it relatively well with all the records, so the car is in pretty great condition.

It has 295k km(183k miles) on it, but it's mostly highway mileage, though.

I have the following problems and questions:

1. The passenger door lock cylinder is broken, so I can't stick my key in the car lock. Not that it particularly bothers me since the driver side works perfectly fine, but do you guys have an idea how much it costs to fix a dead lock cylinder?

2. Does the CE trim get an illuminated ignition lock? Found it a little tricky to jam the key in at night, which is when I drive mostly because I still suck at driving a stick now. I think the CE trim is the base trim, correct?

3. How can I fix a slack throttle wire? Can anyone kindly show me the location of it? The throttle seems to be really slack on this car, and as a result, I need to press the gas pedal down more to actually rev the engine up; this really messes with me when I am trying to take off in 1st gear and I have stalled a lot because of this. I want to make it tight without slack like my daily driver Accord and the driving school's Civic and nail down the gas pedal.

4. Not a big one, but seems like when I press down the brake pedal, I can feel it vibrate a bit. The car brakes very well, though, and since it's a standard transmission, slowing down with engine braking is also a lot easier. I do make sure the engine doesn't rev too low when I am braking, either, so I know it can't be from the engine. Does the Corolla CE have front disc brakes? Am I possibly experiencing a wrapped rotor?

5. I just wanted to get some feedbacks from the people who own the 5-speed standard transmission version of the car. I have read through the Owner's Manual and read the recommended shift point, but it seems like the Owner's Manual wants you to shift at 2500RPM+ for 1~2 and 2~3. Can I get away with shifting a little earlier? Also, if I am cruising down the street, what's the ideal RPM? I found out that if I am going at 60 km/h(37 mph) in the car, I will get a little over 2000RPM in 3rd and somewhere around 1500RPM in 4th. Which is a better choice in this situation? I am new to manual, so please educate me!

Sorry for bombing you guys with questions. I will clean up my car a bit in the morning and make sure I take some good pictures of the car!
 
#2
First off welcome! And congratulations on your new buy!
Second I'm assuming your not in the US since your miles are in km first?
I live in the US so most of my knowledge is US based.

Now to answer your questions!

1. I don't know how much that would be but it would probably be cheaper to take it to a local locksmith to help replace that cylinder to fit you key that would most likely be your cheapest route.

2. None of our 8th gen US models get illuminated ignition, in 99 our trims were the base VE, mid level CE, and high trim LE.

3. your throttle cable will be the one going toward the firewall no the one going into your transmission. There is a nut on the cable where it is mounted to the throttle body which you can use to adjust make sure you tighten it down.

4. Yes this is mostly likely cause but warpage on your rotors if you feel the vibration in the steering wheel like a shimmy while applying brakes it's your front rotors, if you feel it in the pedal it's most likely rear drums.

5. Now my Corolla is auto but I have a 98 manual RAV4. Shift points are usually best around 2500-3000rpm
And for coasting as long as your above 1700rpm it should be fine just don't lug your vehicle. Hope this helps
 
#3
Wow, I didn't check this forum for a while. Sorry about the hit and run, haha.

First off welcome! And congratulations on your new buy!
Second I'm assuming your not in the US since your miles are in km first?
I live in the US so most of my knowledge is US based.
Yep, I am from the Great White North, so everything in the car is metric(km and Celsius)

1. I don't know how much that would be but it would probably be cheaper to take it to a local locksmith to help replace that cylinder to fit you key that would most likely be your cheapest route.
I asked about the lock cylinder. The locksmith is willing to rekey it for CAN$40, but the dealership said the lock cylinder will cost me more than CAN$100... I will see if they have some 99 Corollas in the junkyards then.

2. None of our 8th gen US models get illuminated ignition, in 99 our trims were the base VE, mid level CE, and high trim LE.
The illuminated ignition is mentioned in the Owner's Manual, so I am a little surprised that none of these cars have it. Very strange.

3. your throttle cable will be the one going toward the firewall no the one going into your transmission. There is a nut on the cable where it is mounted to the throttle body which you can use to adjust make sure you tighten it down.
I found the throttle cable and adjusted it. Thanks for the info!

Unfortunately, I have tightened it all the way at this point. Seems like a cable replacement may be inevitable in the future.

4. Yes this is mostly likely cause but warpage on your rotors if you feel the vibration in the steering wheel like a shimmy while applying brakes it's your front rotors, if you feel it in the pedal it's most likely rear drums.
I feel it in the pedal, so it is the drums then. Gotcha.


5. Now my Corolla is auto but I have a 98 manual RAV4. Shift points are usually best around 2500-3000rpm
And for coasting as long as your above 1700rpm it should be fine just don't lug your vehicle. Hope this helps
Got it, just seems like the ones suggested in the manual is pretty high. I tend to keep the RPM between 1500 and 2200.

Two more questions:

1. Is there a light for the security system when it's set? I can't seem to find it and it doesn't come on.

2. The seatbelt light doesn't work, but I know it's not because of the bulb. Any ideas?

Here are some pics. I just polished up the headlights yesterday and got some nice bulbs in there, and now I can actually see more than a foot in front of me.

20170212_035546.jpg 20170215_150007.jpg
 
#4
IMG_3764.JPG 1. If you vehicle is equipped with a factory alarm system your button should look like this. This is a picture I pulled of the Internet but it is how these generation Corollas have it here in the states. Usually located under parking brake. And it should flash when active although the light isn't too bright.

2. By the seat belt light not working do you mean it never comes on or it stays flashing even when buckled? How do you mean?
If it never comes on check your buckle and make it the release button isnt stuck in, this may cause the light to never come on.

Real clean looking Corolla! Awesome!
 
#5
View attachment 2202 1. If you vehicle is equipped with a factory alarm system your button should look like this. This is a picture I pulled of the Internet but it is how these generation Corollas have it here in the states. Usually located under parking brake. And it should flash when active although the light isn't too bright.
My car doesn't have a keyless entry feature, so I am guessing there is no flashing light. According to the dealership, only the ones come with keyless entry have this flashing light.

2. By the seat belt light not working do you mean it never comes on or it stays flashing even when buckled? How do you mean?
If it never comes on check your buckle and make it the release button isnt stuck in, this may cause the light to never come on.
Just never comes on. I spray a bit of electrical connector into the buckle, but no luck.

One weird thing about the buckles is that they are kinda stuck in. They don't fully spring back out after I release the seatbelt. The seatbelts will click and function normally when they are put into the buckle, however, which is why it's strange.


Real clean looking Corolla! Awesome!
Thanks! The previous owners did a good job keeping the car in a fairly good shape. There are some dents in the rear passenger door and some other minor cosmetic imperfections, but overall it's pretty great. I read in this forum that this car can burn a bit of oil, which is what I am experiencing. I just put in a new PCV valve in recently and changed the oil today to some Pennzoil Platinum to see if anything improves.
 
#6
That's exactly your problem because it's not springing back all the way the vehicle thinks you have your seat belt on.
Yes they do tend to burn oil especially when oil exchange internvals are not done as recommended.
PCV can help and well as adding some treatment every oil change.
I got my vechile to go from burning 1 quart every 500 miles down to 1000 miles a quart. Doesn't happen in one oil change I mean literary have to repeat every oil change.
 
#7
That's exactly your problem because it's not springing back all the way the vehicle thinks you have your seat belt on.
Yes they do tend to burn oil especially when oil exchange internvals are not done as recommended.
PCV can help and well as adding some treatment every oil change.
I got my vechile to go from burning 1 quart every 500 miles down to 1000 miles a quart. Doesn't happen in one oil change I mean literary have to repeat every oil change.
Yeah, I can pry the buttons out, but the light still wouldn't come on. I will see if I have time to take the buckle apart to fix the springs since I just put on my seat belt without even thinking about it.

The car has ALL of the maintenance records since it was bought in 1999. The previous owners, especially the second one I bought the car from, did very well in terms of maintenance. The car had mostly highway mileage and the previous owner did oil changes every 3~5 months. I changed out the PCV a while ago and just did an oil change myself(took photos and kept receipts to show the next person I've done it). Before the oil change, I just dumped in about a half can of Seafoam into both the crankcase and fuel tank to see if anything helps.

I think it goes down maybe a half quart/litre every 500 km-ish, so about a quart/litre every 600 miles. I just carry a jug of 5W-30 in the trunk now and remember to fill it up every time I get gas.
 
#8
View attachment 2202 1. If you vehicle is equipped with a factory alarm system your button should look like this. This is a picture I pulled of the Internet but it is how these generation Corollas have it here in the states. Usually located under parking brake. And it should flash when active although the light isn't too bright.

2. By the seat belt light not working do you mean it never comes on or it stays flashing even when buckled? How do you mean?
If it never comes on check your buckle and make it the release button isnt stuck in, this may cause the light to never come on.

Real clean looking Corolla! Awesome!
 
#9
hi just found this forum .o got a cecorolla 2000. i brough used .has 127thousand. on it.had 120 thousand orcao when got it.not ahoeroom .it is green ,has had diffent touchups of green paint but runs good
1observation. my vvti engine has the alumium air intake instead of the plastic one .seems to have great pickup.funny car critcs badmouth the old automatic.but if its reliable dont knock it.had teaded in my moms old honda accrd when the auto tran died on it .toyota was and is making better tanmission
2,gas light on gauge went out. it is easy to get at.whole cluster can be a essed by removing few screws.wayvro go toyota.if hit junk yard just pocket the bulbs and holders xhanged them out..
3.dont pull on inside door handrks if door is locked they break after market ones seem to ha ve more play if do
4.have done the toothpast bit on headlights but headlight cleaneraxwork best.mcquiters.
5 when headliner was. bad cut out bad section uaed grey primer pait on foam comes out grey.ok fot me
on locks try wd40 and patience ,key did start working ok.
 
#10
hi just found this forum .o got a cecorolla 2000. i brough used .has 127thousand. on it.had 120 thousand orcao when got it.not ahoeroom .it is green ,has had diffent touchups of green paint but runs good
1observation. my vvti engine has the alumium air intake instead of the plastic one .seems to have great pickup.funny car critcs badmouth the old automatic.but if its reliable dont knock it.had teaded in my moms old honda accrd when the auto tran died on it .toyota was and is making better tanmission
2,gas light on gauge went out. it is easy to get at.whole cluster can be a essed by removing few screws.wayvro go toyota.if hit junk yard just pocket the bulbs and holders xhanged them out..
3.dont pull on inside door handrks if door is locked they break after market ones seem to ha ve more play if do
4.have done the toothpast bit on headlights but headlight cleaneraxwork best.mcquiters.
5 when headliner was. bad cut out bad section uaed grey primer pait on foam comes out grey.ok fot me
on locks try wd40 and patience ,key did start working ok.
1. VVTi wasn't available for 1999 Corollas. I have a 2008 Honda Accord V6 AT as my main car, and that's a great car. That said, it's well known that 6th Gen and early 7th Gen V6 AT Accords(1998~2004) had issues with their trannies. Modern Honda auto trannies are pretty great, and Honda's manual trannies are also regarded as very good ones. I am sure the ones in Corollas are not bad, either.

2. I have checked the bulb and it's fine. I think my gauge is out of calibration or something. I can only fill up about 40 litres(10.5 gallons) when the needle hits the E. Maybe that's why I never see the light come on.

3. Never had any issues with that.

4. I might try that in the future.

5. The lock is physically damaged. I can see the dents up. Maybe some dumbass car thief wanted to steal the car. As I said, I won't get a new lock unless I can source one from a junkyard.
 
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