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I had this issue a while ago, and it turned out a heat shield on the exhaust around the catalytic converter had come loose causing a rattle on start up. It started rattling really bad, and I found it wedged between the exhaust manifold, and the firewall.

I've cleaned mine a few times, it should be fine. I did have an issue where the codes pointed to either a MAF or O2 sensor issue, however it turned out to be a vacuum leak around the intake manifold. Before I'd start throwing parts at it, get some flammable carb cleaner, and spray it around the...

I pull an 1100 lb camping trailer with mine, it works well, just shift into second when going up steep hills on the highway, the torque band is in the 4k rpm range. No transmission cooler needed. I've towed thousands of miles in the mountains, and the fluid doesn't smell burnt or anything still...

Mine is at 118000, just a small bit of bearing noise right now, but still working well.

I like to go to crutch field for this kind of thing, they have the brackets for properly mounting the unit, as well as any conversion cables required, I put a single din in my car, works great, 2004 Toyota corolla

It's on the throttle body under the hood, just follow your air box hose to the throttle body, which has the throttle cable attached, it's on the side towards the firewall.

So I replaced my drum brakes and the right rear bearing and hub about a year and a half ago. After about 9 months I got a pulsing in the brake pedal, and the right rear drum brake was making a squeaking scraping sound, for several months and getting progressively worse, to the point of making...

Check for intake leaks using a flammable starting fluid, or brake cleaner. Spray around the intake gasket, and between the throttle body and intake manifold, also check around the brake booster, and PCV valve, if you notice a change in engine rpm while spraying, then repair the intake leak.

I've got one on my 2004 corolla, and the rating is 150 lbs tongue weight, and 1500 lbs. I bought mine from u-hail for about 300.00, and installed it myself. Not sure how much they charge to install it for you.

When manufacturing oil channels sometimes cross drillings are made and then plugged by pressing a metal bit into it. But that almost looks like a bolt hole, that's been stripped and sheared off.

Why would you want to do a thing like that? I can understand lifting it, but lowering it and keeping good ride? There's only about 3 -4 inches between the fender and the tire already. Sorry it just sounds like a performance reduction to me. If I lowered mine I don't know how it could be driven...

Have you checked your harmonic balancer, it could be that it has broken down over time, and stopped dampening the output of the engine causing vibrations. I'd include my source to howthingswork but the forum won't allow me to post links till my account is 2 or more days old.

There's a switch in the buckle, you could replace the buckle pretty cheap by going to a junk yard, and finding one, or this site seems to have what you might be needing. This guy does a pretty good job of showing how to complete the job.

Could be just an issue with the computer no longer sensing voltage appropriately. If it runs fine, and the battery voltage is maintained, you should be fine. You could take it to an auto zone or something and have them check your charging system.

What are the codes you are getting, I got a P0133, slow response code accompanied by a lean code I think it was P0171, and replaced my o@ sensor on bank1sensor 1 twice to no fix, Then I checked for intake leaks, and found one, which was the actual source of the problem. But the O2 sensor it...