Help With Sub Install

#1
Hi guys.
I installed and wiring a subwoofer setup in my dads 2016 Corolla S. But for some reason no matter how I wire it, whether I tap the rear speakers or the head unit with the line-out converter I still get no signal to my sub. The amp it turned on so I know I have power but I get no sound. I had sound when I first hooked it up and it just shut off after 5 seconds. Can anybody shed some light on this for me if there's any other way I can do this? Thank you!
 
#2
I just went through similar issues. What amp are you using? Does it have remote turn on wire or is it signal sensing? Stock HU?
 
#3
I'm using an Alpine MRP-M500 mono amp.
Has a remote wire turn on. Stock HU. Nothing seems to pull the signal. But when I connect back the stock speakers they work. But for some reason when I tap the wires from the converter to stock rear speakers no sound.
 
#4
That amp uses both turn on methods. I had this problem with my Kenwood 4 channel and my Kicker mono. I removed the amp turn on wire and just rely on the the high level input from the speakers. Problem solved for me. Try using only one or the other. Also, I just tapped the speakers, the Kicker KSLOC adapters that I had were junk. I couldn't get the gain adjusted correctly and when connected, my radio signals were f'd up. My set up sounds great for still using a stock HU and the bass shakes the wipers! BOOM!
 
#5
Are you getting any sound through your hi speakers? If you're getting absolutely no sound whether it be your high speakers and also your low speakers which should be your subs is indicating that something is not hooked up properly the stock head unit runs on in protection mode so if you unplug one speaker all the speakers won't work something needs to be plugged in to any adapter for speakers you can get the branch wires at Best Buy except for the tweeters on the front driver and passenger door tapping into your wires should be no issue but the same thing applies it needs to be secured if you tap into the wire and you don't secure the line it'll sense that and go into protection mode I just installed 2 15 inch subs and my Corolla and I had similar issues but that was because I had one wire that wouldn't stay put
 
#6
I agree with statement above.
I used the speaker outputs off the stock HU and hooked up the RCA adapters from Kicker. Sent high level signal out to Kenwood 4 channel used splitters on the rear channel and sent that to the Kicker amp and sub. I guess my amplifiers provide enough resistance to satisfy the HU. I am not using remote wire turn on, on either amp.
Check your LOC's to see if the manufacturer provided a "dummy" load or not. Shouldn't make that much difference if your just tapping what's there, only if your disconnecting the stock speaker altogether.
 

Blair

New Member
#7
I hooked you amp up through head unit. The small grey wire is the remote wire. The connector next to it is for the back speakers. Make sure you connect your av cables also. It works perfect. I have 2 ponder 12 inch with a kicker 600 watt amp.
 
#8
I bought the wiring harnesses that go between the factory HU and the cars wiring harness, to make my connections to. Tip: I've never removed the factory stereo, you can access the wiring through the glove box. It takes patience though.
I have the 2016 Kicker VcompR loaded enclosure and the Kicker CX600.1, plenty of bass for this little car! And I'm only using about 1/3 of its potential.
Problem I'm having now is the rattling.
 
#11
Ok so today I tried just the high level input on the amp and still nothing.
So are you guys saying I should get the adapter for the back of the headunit?
Or what speakers did you guys tap? I tapped the back rear speakers and nothing. It's weird how it worked the first time and then just stopped. Now I can't get it to work again
 
#12
Are you sure your amp didn't die?
You said it worked at first, so you might have had it wired up correctly.
Take it to a Best Buy or stereo shop and have it bench tested. If you go to the installation bay, they'll probably do it for free.
Anyways, it doesn't matter where you tap the speakers at. Observe correct polarity though.
So you tapped the rear speakers, ran four wires to your amp input or used some type of LOC to forward the signal, set the amp up for high level input (signal sensing), ran proper sized 12 vdc to power amp, grounded amp to chassis, bridged single subwoofer to amplifier output, set your gain and other settings and your losing all sound?
I'm at work right now, but when I get a chance I will take some pictures of my set up and try and post them here.
 
#14
Am planing the same thing with my 2016 Rolla.
Stock HU. All in one sub/amp
Power, ground fine
High out put going to tap the real speakers, but on that note do I still need to use the remote wire?
 
#16
Am planing the same thing with my 2016 Rolla.
Stock HU. All in one sub/amp
Power, ground fine
High out put going to tap the real speakers, but on that note do I still need to use the remote wire?
You won't need the remote turn on if your amp will accept signal sensing.

When I was using it on mine, the reception on the radio got really bad.
Amp would cut on and off cause it was trying to switch between the two.
I am now using that remote turn on wire for a new mirror that I got. Has built in 4.3" screen and wifi !!
Installed a front camera too!
 
#17
I bought the wiring harnesses that go between the factory HU and the cars wiring harness, to make my connections to. Tip: I've never removed the factory stereo, you can access the wiring through the glove box. It takes patience though.
I have the 2016 Kicker VcompR loaded enclosure and the Kicker CX600.1, plenty of bass for this little car! And I'm only using about 1/3 of its potential.
Problem I'm having now is the rattling.

i know who to dampen your rattling problem....my solution which works wonderfully is removing the rear deck lid (where most of my rattling comes from) and fill the empty crevices with crumbled up newspaper as a "Dampener" .....so long story short locate all the rattling spots and fill it with crumbled paper.... and simply put ur deck lid back....its made a HUGE difference in the rattling for me.
 
#18
i know who to dampen your rattling problem....my solution which works wonderfully is removing the rear deck lid (where most of my rattling comes from) and fill the empty crevices with crumbled up newspaper as a "Dampener" .....so long story short locate all the rattling spots and fill it with crumbled paper.... and simply put ur deck lid back....its made a HUGE difference in the rattling for me.
Where did you buy it at?
 
#20
I bought the wiring harnesses that go between the factory HU and the cars wiring harness, to make my connections to. Tip: I've never removed the factory stereo, you can access the wiring through the glove box. It takes patience though.
I have the 2016 Kicker VcompR loaded enclosure and the Kicker CX600.1, plenty of bass for this little car! And I'm only using about 1/3 of its potential.
Problem I'm having now is the rattling.
Where did you buy the harness at?
 
#25
i know who to dampen your rattling problem....my solution which works wonderfully is removing the rear deck lid (where most of my rattling comes from) and fill the empty crevices with crumbled up newspaper as a "Dampener" .....so long story short locate all the rattling spots and fill it with crumbled paper.... and simply put ur deck lid back....its made a HUGE difference in the rattling for me.
I used the foam padding out of a Pelican gun case. Removed the factory insulation from the rear decal lid and used it as a template. Stuffed the foam in place of the insulation and now there is zero rattle! I used a little dynomat on the fuel door too.
 
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