1994 Corolla - Rust -- The Bane of All Cars (Aside From Other Drivers)

[Hoonigan]

Hey folks, Hoonigan here, and I approach you today with a question regarding bodywork--specifically, rust removal and repair.

Now, earlier this month, I took ownership of a 1994 Corolla DX Wagon, whom I christened Wendy. I'm her third owner, and on the day I got her, one thing that immediately caught my attention was this problem on the driver's side rear quarter panel:

As one can see, this is not an insignificant amount of rust. With fall and winter just around the corner, removing this rust and repairing it is one of my highest priorities as a first-time car owner on a budget. The problem is, I've never done any bodywork on a car before, and I would like to avoid having to send Wendy to the body shop if I can help it, as I would be losing my only current means of transportation, even if just temporarily (I work every day of the week, and I don't get weekends off).

Now I've been doing a little bit of research, and one item that keeps popping up is Loctite Naval Jelly. However, I'm fairly sure that Naval Jelly alone will not be enough to get rid of the rust I can currently see (to say nothing of what may be hidden underneath). So I created this thread to ask those experienced in moderate to severe rust repair-- what other methods and tools can I place at my disposal to take care of this glaring issue?

 

[Donabed Kopoian]

The only way to get rid of surface rust is to use a power sander until you see metal, then re-spray the area. If the rust is severe, the panel will need to be replaced (and rear-quarter panels are welded on, so you'll have to drill the spot welds and weld in the new panel, not something that an amateur body repairman should attempt without supervision from an experienced body repairman).

Rear-quarters ... roofs ... are probably the biggest clusters for rust to appear. Changing a fender, a door, etc, is easy. Rear-quarters and roof always involve cutting/drilling/welding/sanding/spraying.

 

[echarleswhyte]

no personal experience but what Donabed said is key. got to grind down and find how far the rust goes. if it is surface rust then that all needs to be ground down to shiny metal and then base coat it. I would imagine (I've seen cars with base coat patches driving around) as long as it is base coated well it should last the winter then next summer can finish it off with some colour and clear. (after sanding between coats of course)

 

[Kev250R]

I'll echo what the others have said, a year ago I took-on what I thought was some light surface rust in a Ford Ranchero which resulted in me cutting-out most of the area behind the cab, fabbing then welding-in replacement patch panels. A colossal PITA.

One thing you might want to try is coating the effected parts with POR-15. Everything I've read says that when it's applied properly it works pretty good. I have a quart of it to try on the Ranchero, someday if/when I ever get back to working on that project again.

Kevin

 

[Hoonigan]

Thanks guys, I'm gonna try and sort this out before they start salting the roads here in PA.

 

[Scott O'Kashan]

They salt the roads in Pennsylvania? I had always heard they used only sand and calcium?

 

[dlayman]

They salt the roads in Pennsylvania? I had always heard they used only sand and calcium?

They use salt, calcium and cinders (basically small stones of gravel - just wonderful on your paint), sounds like you're driving in a hail storm. After one winter your bumper and hood, and front fenders and possibly roof will all have damage if not protected.

 

[Kev250R]

We use crushed Cinders in the mountains here in So.Cal. I've not noticed any damage to my paint from driving in them (although I generally only drive on cinder-covered roads once or twice a winter). They do seem to provide decent traction. From everything I've read and heard from those in area's where the roads get salted I'm glad that Ca doesn't do that here.

Kevin

 

[dlayman]

When you get pelted by hundreds of them when a semi goes by you on the interstate it just chews up your paint. I had a Subaru Forester for awhile that had the plastic unpainted lower body. The whole front of the car was full of divots and the aluminum hood got dented by those things. Its basically like having someone throw tiny stones at your car.

 

[Donabed Kopoian]

At least you guys got that. In Reno, they only cared about plowing and sanding downtown (i.e. casinos). Everyone else got the shaft. We had a bad snow storm in 2005 and the street I lived on was an ice rink for months.

 

[dlayman]

Oh, we can get that too, in the rural mountainous areas. Plus, I don't think the tiny stones are all that effective. And you get the added pleasure of raking them out of your yard every spring. The paint damage is the worst though. Its a sickening feeling when someone goes past you and you hear hundred pings of stones hitting your car at high speed.

 

[LPBinTN]

From the photo, it looks as if the panel has some filler = past collision repair. Looks real "iffy". The problem with rust is that it is like an iceberg. You never see all of it. There is corrosion beyond what you see, and this will become evident has you sand into adjoining areas. You cannot just grind down, prime and repaint. You need to deal with the microscopic rust. The best suggestion I have (due to the complexity the process) is go to the local library and get a book on autobody repair. Another suggestion is a tech college in your area having an autobody program. Use their library. That being said, even if the repair was performed to industry standards, depending upon your area you may probably only gain a few years at best.