2016 Toyota Corolla subwoofer install

#1
hi I was wondering if anyone one can help me out and start me on the right path to install a sub on my car i pretty much need if anyone gots a diagram for the stereo . Or any pics or step by step info I saw some post but the pics seem not to be working any help will be appreciated
 
#3
Installing a subsystem is just like any other car however my experience that I had with my 2014 Corolla was that I wanted to install 0 gauge wiring from the engine bay to the trunk however I ended up with 4 gauge wiring because the hole in the firewall of my car was too close to a large object in the way which had to do with the stick shift if your car is an automatic you can fit anything through the firewall and the remote wire I have Linked UP towards some wires underneath my steering column. I kept my original head unit because it controls a lot of the features of the car so in turn I did a high low converter in the trunk with the six by nines
 
#4
My experience is pretty good I done wiring before solder heat shrink I was mostly just wondering which wires are which like ignition on the radio and the negative n positive speaker wire .
 
#5
I can't remember which wire it was for the remote wire, I installed it over a year ago, I'd have to take it all apart again to find out, I litterally just used a ohms meter and turned car on and off until I found a wire that put out 12+ volts that turned on and off when I hit the ignition
 
#6
I can't remember which wire it was for the remote wire, I installed it over a year ago, I'd have to take it all apart again to find out, I litterally just used a ohms meter and turned car on and off until I found a wire that put out 12+ volts that turned on and off when I hit the ignition
Good shit man I will do that I just been busy I will try it out see what happens
 
#7
If you buy the aftermarket radio harnesses, there is a list of what wires do what.
I'm rewiring mine right now, so I know the blue with white strip is the remote turn on, but that's on the harness that I bought.
I just ran a 1/0 power cable to the rear. What a pain. But it's done now!
Went through the firewall above the brake pedal.
There is another spot behind the glove box also. FYI
 
#9
I am using a a PAC L.O.C. PRO LP7-2 Line output converter. I am having an issue finding the correct rear speaker wiring to tap into and the 12v+ constant wre. Do I have to come off the head unit?
 
#10
Ru doing a converter box using your speaker wires to make an RCA cord for an amp? If so it just positive and negative, just have to tap into the wires connected to the 6x9 in the trunk, just as a heads up tho those converter boxes don't make great sound and you will hear people's voices through the subwoofer
 
#12
Ru doing a converter box using your speaker wires to make an RCA cord for an amp? If so it just positive and negative, just have to tap into the wires connected to the 6x9 in the trunk, just as a heads up tho those converter boxes don't make great sound and you will hear people's voices through the subwoofer
Not entirely true. If it's done properly and your settings are corrwct on your amp and LOC, the sound is just as good.
 
#13
IMG_1612.JPG I used the speaker outputs off the stock head unit and just spliced on some of Kickers RCA connectors. No LOC's for me!
RCA's run straight to my amps from there and then back, connected into the speaker field wiring.
All of this is done through harnesses of course. IMG_0872.JPG This was taken after I removed the LOC's. Which I replaced with Kicker KSL's (?)
 
#14
View attachment 2781 I used the speaker outputs off the stock head unit and just spliced on some of Kickers RCA connectors. No LOC's for me!
RCA's run straight to my amps from there and then back, connected into the speaker field wiring.
All of this is done through harnesses of course. View attachment 2782 This was taken after I removed the LOC's. Which I replaced with Kicker KSL's (?)
Are you running the stock head unit?
 
#21
Yes but volume is all the way up.
Mine does this too with my iPhone when using Bluetooth. Not very often.
Most of the time the low frequencies cut out. In the middle of a song, the bass will just stop.
I've been using an old iPod classic instead, through the USB port. That has some issues too, but the sound quality is much better and no drop in bass.
These entune head units have lots of problems.
 
#22
IMG_1954.JPG I'm planing on making a video for YouTube on how to do this.
But anyways, here's my current setup.
If your looking at the back of the oem head unit, remove the two connectors on the left and plug them into the larger connectors shown in the picture. Then plug the smaller ends, also shown in the picture, into the head unit.
Splice the ground, memory and power wires together, respectively. You can use the blue or blue with white stripe to power on your amps or splice them as shown.
Splice on the RCA plugs to the speaker output wires leaving the head unit. Front and rear, left and right.
Now you have 4 channels that you can amplify.
Make sure any amps you buy can handle high level input or speaker level input. I use Kicker amps which have this built in.
Run your RCA's to your amp/s.
Run your speaker wiring from your amp/s back to the wiring harness and connect to the wires that go to your speakers.
In the picture I have butt splice connectors with nothing attached, where you would be making these connections.

I had line output converters on my first go around. They sucked, so this is what I came up with.
I have had ZERO issues with this setup. The sound is crisp and clear.
I know someone on here will insist on using LOC's but I found them unnecessary.
Anyways, I hope this helps a little. Give me a couple days and I'll make a video where I can explain it better.
My goal was to NOT cut any factory wiring. Making the T harness gave me a place to splice into, however I want.

My next step will be full head unit replacement, and adding the Mastro RR for vehicle control settings.
I'll definitely make a video while I'm doing this.
 
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