P0125 Code and Loss of Power

TwoFourOlla · Feb 28, 2014

Hello
New to the forum and 1st time corolla owner..
I just bought a 2000 rolla 5spd the other day with 129k on it.
It ran great the 1st tank of gas and got 36.7 mpg and on the 2nd tank it started haveing a lack of power on acceleration and the engine light came on (30.1 mpg 2nd tank) much more interstate driveing tho. Went an scanned it an pulled a p0125 code so I replaced the coolant temp sensor but it still has the lack of power.. No engine light yet as I reset the ecu and have only put 20 miles on it so far after replaceing the sensor.. Also the car consumes alot of oil (no leaks) I see random black clouds on heavy acceleration but not all the time and white ish clouds also randomly on acceleration. . Coolant is clean and dont lose any.. Any info on what the issue is will be greatly appreciated! Tomorrow im going to try cleaning the MAF
Thanks in advance

TwoFourOlla · Feb 28, 2014

Put on a little over 200 miles so far today.. no engine light yet but still seems like she doesnt have the zip and power she should have (randomly it does seem to have good power tho).. Also I put new plugs in 2 days ago and the car ran worse right after and the engine light started flashing but cleared up shortly after

Donabed Kopoian · Mar 1, 2014

The check engine light flashing means the engine is missing. Check the connections from the coil to the plug and make sure they aren't damaged or worn. Also check the connection at the coil to make sure there isn't a loose connection.

Get a compression test done. If you see two cylinders next to each other with low compression on the dry and wet test while the other two are fine, then that is where the head gasket is blown. They CAN blow on the outside cylinders but they usually do it between cylinders.

In the meantime, take it easy on the car, especially if it is going through oil.

TwoFourOlla · Mar 2, 2014

The engine light only flashed that 1 time and it was wright after I had changed the plugs. It has not flashed sence then it only came on and stayed on once after that and not at all after raplaceing the temp sensor.. ive put probably 700 miles on sence then and still no light but it still seems to be lacking in power a little mainly when Im 1/2 or more on the throttle it seems to hesitate in and out most of the time. I will check the plug and coil connections tonight or tomorrow and also I have flushed the engine twice and both time the oil has came out looking like diesel oil so im hopeing that this helps with the oil consumption which so far it seems it may have a little but will see.. if not I will do a compression test on it and hope for the best.
Thank you for the reply Donabed!

TwoFourOlla · Mar 3, 2014

I just did a compression test and starting from the drivers side this is what I got..
Dry test-185-182-182-182
Wet test-180-184-190-210
All within 10lbs prolly as I was not quick to get to the guage.. also my check engine light is back on now (steady on)
My plugs looked kind of dirty for only haveing 1000 miles on them!

TwoFourOlla · Mar 3, 2014

Pulled codes P1305,P1300,P1310 And P1315
I think they are all ignition circuit malfunction codes.
Does anyone know what these are or what is causeing them?

Donabed Kopoian · Mar 5, 2014

The engine itself is in good shape.

The oil is leaking from the valve stem seals into the engine (explains the fouling plugs). Kinda early for that but it may have been driven hard. Those won't trash the engine as long as you keep up checking the oil.

As far as the codes go. Not sure what they are. Start checking all wiring and connections first related to ignition before you go replacing parts.

My Mustang threw codes off and on and I traced it to torn insulation on my Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. Everytime it rained the connection would short out and make the car think it was overheating and throw a code after running rough for a second.

Not sure if you can find those codes online either. Maybe call a Toyota Dealer and ask, see if they'll tell you what the codes mean.

TwoFourOlla · Mar 6, 2014

Would the valves have to be replaced to fix it? And yeah Im pretty sure the p0125 code was the temp sensor because I replaced that and havent had that code come up again sence and all the others are ignition circuit malfunction codes but was hopeing someone on here has had the same thing happein with them all popping up at once so I could maybe narrow it down.. those codes have only came up each time I have removed and reinstalled my plugs but after resetting the ecm the cel does not come on now so I havent looked into it.. only thing is it still slightly hesitates at times but from the sounds of it thats probably from the bad valve seals?

Donabed Kopoian · Mar 7, 2014

No, but you do have to remove the heads to replace the valve stem seals because the valve springs and valve itself need to be removed to get to them (usually are made of brass or nylon and lock onto the valve itself). It's kinda your call on if you want to do all of the work to replace them or not. Just out of curiosity, you are using the proper oil for the engine and not going really thin right? Think those years used 5w-20.

Weird those codes get thrown replacing spark plugs. I'm guessing you have coil on plug. Was there a lot of dirt or grime around the connectors? Do the terminals look corroded? Are any wires loose and working their way out of the connector?

Here is something else I found that may be of value.

http://caphector.com/atoyota/techin...pdf/02rmsour/2002/02echorm/di/eg/cip1300p.pdf

Donabed Kopoian · Mar 7, 2014

I wish you had a Bluetooth OBD-II Scanner with the Torque App Installed.

That will actually tell you the misfire count on each cylinder.

Now since the code is happening on all four cylinders ... my best guess is either all connections are corroded or loose, or, most likely, you may have a faulty or poor ground on the ignition circuit.

TwoFourOlla · Mar 8, 2014

Im useing 5w30.. should I try a 10w40 maybe? Yes its coil on plug. All the connections at the coil are clean, I replaced 2 of the coils with ones from the yard today and that didnt throw any codes nor did it when I pulled the other 2 connections of the other 2 coils.. buy any chance do you know where the ignition ground is located? Oh yeah ill look at the link you attached again and ill have to look into replaceing the seals to see how much work that would be before I fully decide to do that job or not.
Thanks for the response

Scott O'Kashan · Mar 8, 2014

TwoFourOlla said:

http://www.obd-codes.com/p0125

This means that the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor indicates that the engine has not reached the required temperature level to enter closed-loop operation within a specified amount of time after starting the engine.

Read more at: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0125
Copyright © OBD-Codes.com
"This means that the engine coolant temperature, (ECT), sensor indicates that the engine has has not reached the required temperature level to enter closed-loop operation within a specified period of time after starting the engine".

This does not automatically mean the temperature sensor itself has gone bad, but much more likely that the coolant is not reaching proper temperature. The typical cause of this is a faulty thermostat. Feel the upper radiator hose after the engine has warmed up and determine if it is very hot or not. If it feels relatively cool, the thermostat is most likely the cause. Diagnose first, don't replace. Randomly replacing parts hoping by chance doing so will repair the problem can get very expensive and end up with perfectly good parts in the trash can.

Blue exhaust is oil burning. Black exhaust indicates an overly rich fuel condition. White exhaust indicates moisture or coolant being burned. Some white exhaust at start up is normal and a car will always have a whitish exhaust during cold winter temperatures.

Any engine will consume oil. That's normal and to be expected. How much oil consumption is a lot to you? How many miles are traveled before you have to add oil? How many miles? How much oil? What brand, type, (old school petroleum or synthetic oil), and and viscosity of oil are you using in the engine?
This means that the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor indicates that the engine has not reached the required temperature level to enter closed-loop operation within a specified amount of time after starting the engine.

Read more at: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0125
Copyright © OBD-Codes.com
This means that the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor indicates that the engine has not reached the required temperature level to enter closed-loop operation within a specified amount of time after starting the engine.

Read more at: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0125
Copyright © OBD-Codes.com

Scott O'Kashan · Mar 8, 2014

TwoFourOlla said:

What brand spark plugs did you use and what gap did you set them at?

Have you checked/diagnosed for a plugged up catalytic converter?

Scott O'Kashan · Mar 8, 2014

TwoFourOlla said:

When you say the oil looks like diesel oil, I take it you mean it is black?

Look inside the engine via the oil fill hole with a strong light and look for dark accumulations of sludge from using petroleum oil.

If the oil is very dark in a short period of time, the engine is either sludged up from using petroleum oils, or too much fuel is getting into the oil.

Scott O'Kashan · Mar 8, 2014

TwoFourOlla said:

Describe the appearance of the spark plugs and look at the pictures below to see which spark plug picture looks like yours -

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/faqs/faqread.asp?mode=nml

Scott O'Kashan · Mar 8, 2014

TwoFourOlla said:

P1305 - http://engine-codes.com/p1305_toyota.html

Possible causes
- Ignition Coil No. 2 harness is open or shorted
- Ignition Coil No. 2 circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty Ignition Coil No. 2
- Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)

Read more: http://engine-codes.com/p1305_toyota.html#ixzz2vMp4tb5c

P1300 - http://engine-codes.com/p1300_toyota.html

Possible causes
- Ignition Coil No. 1 harness is open or shorted
- Ignition Coil No. 1 circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty Ignition Coil No. 1
- Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)

Read more: http://engine-codes.com/p1300_toyota.html#ixzz2vMr3q5iB

P1310 - http://engine-codes.com/p1310_toyota.html

Possible causes
- Ignition Coil No. 3 harness is open or shorted
- Ignition Coil No. 3 circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty Ignition Coil No. 3
- Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)

Read more: http://engine-codes.com/p1310_toyota.html#ixzz2vMralWIl

P1315 - http://engine-codes.com/p1315_toyota.html

Possible causes
- Ignition Coil No. 4 harness is open or shorted
- Ignition Coil No. 4 circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty Ignition Coil No. 4
- Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)

Read more: http://engine-codes.com/p1315_toyota.html#ixzz2vMs94r9t

Scott O'Kashan · Mar 8, 2014

Keep in mind that the check engine light will not come back on until the monitors have reset and that can take hundreds of miles, sometimes more. Just because that check engine light is not on doesn't mean there's not a problem.

Attempting to diagnose and repair your own vehicle, you would do very well to purchase a scan code reader. Here is an Actron unit from AdvanceAutoParts.com for only $59.99 and they are running 15% off + a $25 coupon. Today, March 8th is the last day of this special -

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...9125/9020005-P?searchTerm=actron+code+scanner

Product Features:

Reads and erases Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) and turns off check engine light
Displays MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) status
Displays supported emissions readiness monitor status (I/M Monitors)
Bilingual Manual of DTCs and Definitions (English and Spanish)
Enables user to quickly and easily link to their vehicle
Compact tool, fits in your palm
Includes CD software that contains 3,000+ Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) and their descriptions
Attached OBD II 16-pin connector cable provides both data and power connections
1 year warranty

Scott O'Kashan · Mar 8, 2014

TwoFourOlla said:

The engineers at Toyota recommend the 5W-30 oil viscosity for a 2001 Corolla. If 10W-40 is used instead there will be many negatives associated with that, including reduced power/throttle response, reduced fuel economy/increased fuel costs, increased emissions, increased engine temperatures and increased engine wear.

At http://www.CarComplaints.com the number one issue reported for a 2001 Toyota Corolla is excessive oil consumption - http://www.carcomplaints.com/Toyota/Corolla/2001/engine/

A common cause of excessive oil consumption is a sticking or plugged PCV valve from using petroleum oils. A plugged PCV valve pressurizes the engine crankcase, forcing oil up into the combustion chambers and out the exhaust.

You can check/diagnose the PVC valve by removing it and shaking it. If it rattles, it's okay. If it doesn't make any noise when you shake it, or it sounds more like a, "thud", than a rattle, replacing the PVC valve is in order and may take care of the oil consumption issue.

Donabed Kopoian · Mar 8, 2014

TwoFourOlla said:

It is POSSIBLE that all 4 coils are throwing codes simultaneously, but incredibly rare.

Check your battery connections and make sure they are free of corrosion, and the ground will be the ones that go from engine to chassis. Not sure on the exact location but you typically have two ground wires on the engine and one on the transmission. Check all of them for corrosion or fraying. Engine electronics are incredibly sensitive to voltage and resistance, and poor grounds will have all sorts of gremlins surface.

Also, like Scott said, check the PCV Valve (I generally replace mine every 15,000 miles when I do my air filter since they are inexpensive), and look at that table for the spark plugs.

Also, if that code indicates that the engine isn't warming up in time, that could be a caused by a bad coolant temperature sensor, but also things such as intermittent missing, and very, very cold ambient temperatures.

TwoFourOlla · Mar 13, 2014

it uses about 1 qt. every 200 miles. ive been using mobil 5000 I think it is,5w30.. the plugs are ngk's set at .044 also I did replace the cat as it was not functional,yes the oil was black after each time I did an engine flush and now it does continue to get dark quick but im hopeing its still due to some sludge in there, the oil fill looks normal to me its not shiney clean but also not sludgy just a little brown build up. also I am getting good mpg the worst I got was 30 but that's when the cel was on and all the other tanks ive gotten 36-39 mpg! ive put on somewhere around 1000 miles sence I last reset the ecm and like I stated its only came on after each time I removed the plugs but ive yet to investigate that and its my guess that maybe theres a short or something right in that area as that's the only time it happens is when I remove the plugs and I did also replace the pcv valve as it was bad but did not notice a lot of difference, some but not a lot. over all the car runs great and has started using a little less oil but I think im going to tackle the valve seals real soon!
I hope I responded/answered everything and I appoligise if not as I just got home from work and only have 1 eye half open.
thank you guys for your responses and information I appreciate it!

Donabed Kopoian · Mar 13, 2014

That's what forums are for.

P0125 Code and Loss of Power

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