Suspension Torque Specs

Discussion in '1998 - 2002 Toyota Corolla' started by qwksti, Sep 29, 2013.

  1. qwksti

    qwksti New Member

    hi all

    im replacing my mothers suspension on her 2000 corolla. does anyone have the torque specs for the 3 upper bolts and two main bolts? ive done some poking around and didn't see anyone post these numbers...


    Last edited: Sep 29, 2013
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  3. Scott O'Kashan

    Scott O'Kashan Super Moderator

    Hi and welcome aboard. :)

    I don't have access to the information you request and just as a suggestion, I wouldn't recommend trusting such vitally critical information to an unknown source/stranger on the Internet who could provide the incorrect information and the dire consequences that it could mean.

    Secondly, what do you mean by replacing the suspension? That would be an incredible amount of work and costs thousands of dollars, so I'm assuming you are referring to replacing the MacPherson struts?
    Last edited: Sep 29, 2013
  4. OP

    qwksti New Member

    im replacing both front and rear struts / shocks. not that big of a job. parts were $800 for the ready to install set up. just need the torque specs. autozone had them, top 3 nuts are 29ft lbs, and the bottom two bolts are 113 ft lbs.
  5. porschpow

    porschpow New Member

    Sorry to hijack, but How hard is it to replace struts and whats involved? How can you tell if your struts are bad?
  6. OP

    qwksti New Member

    how to tell, the basic is, push down on the front and/or rear , the car should not be to easy to push down, and the suspension should not bounce. it should depress then come back up and stay. you could also be able to tell when driving the car will "float" over bumps and keep going up and down. plus ( in my case ) my mothers car was all original parts and it has 180,000 miles. so it needed it.

    replacing it was pretty easy. i got the ready mount Gabriel suspension kit from auto zone. took me alone about 3 hours to do. and it only took me that long because the front bolts were on so tight and kind of rusty, that i had to work them some to break them lose.

    only other issue was the rear. when removing the shock houseing the brake line mounts on the shock housing. the mount bracket for the line is not cut. meaning they want you to break the brake fluid line to remove it. but i just cut the tab and bent it so i could get the line in and off. then just bent it back. really no big deal. much easier than having to bleed the brakes.

    other than that, pretty easy job.

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