What else should I do to alleviate oil consumption?

#1
I am at school right now, when I get back home I will add more pictures to support my claims of misery. If you need better pictures for me to take, let me know in a reply and I will try to get back to you in the most convenient time.

So in the last three weeks, my oil consumption for my 2002 Corolla (1zz-fe, VVT-i) has jumped from 1 quart burned per one thousand miles to a alarming 1 quart per two hundred miles. However for two entire years (actually two and a half) I have been fully aware of the piston ring issue and did every preventative measure to stop it.

Now I have religiously changed the oil every 3,000 to 4,000 miles in each interval, but in some cases, as early as 2000 miles. My current mileage is just over 170,900 miles.

I have changed the cheap $6 PCV Valve just two days ago but I still no improvement. Here is a before and after set of pictures.




I checked the spark plugs, and there is still yet, no oil fouling at all. I will show you a prettier picture when I get back tonight, or about 11 hours from as of right now. These are the cheap aftermarket spark plugs that are compatible with Corollas from Autozone (a store I seriously hate).



For good measure I used this cheap half-assed floor jack and jackstands to take pictures of the oil pan and transmission housing

Oil pan, drain-plug area. I took it at this angle because everything else about the oil pan seemed insignificant, except this HIDEOUS LOOKING goddamn dent! Maybe it is affecting the ability for my car to pump oil?



Transmission/Transaxle housing. HOLY HELL WHAT IS THAT DOOKIE-PINK STUFF?!? Is that like... burnt transmission fluid? I was also told it could be some sort of gasket sealant mechanics nowadays use.


Also since two years ago I have switched to high mileage oil, Pennzoil High Mileage 5W-30.

What options do I have now?
1. I am considering a offer from the Toyota Dealership to "pump solvent" through the system. But I just read a article questioning the effectiveness of this.
http://justtryus.blogspot.com/2007/12/bonehead-award-engine-oil-flush.html?m=1

2. But I have also heard of DIY tricks like the "MMO Piston Soak". Which is something I am not comfortable performing myself. Apparently a ton of white smoke would be everywhere.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2487632

3. And someone (my Toyota Service Manager two years ago) suggested to me that using a "synthetic blend" would help reduce the oil consumption rate (apparently higher burning point). But I read from several sources (conflicting actually, between oil manufacturers and internet car mechanics) that EITHER "nothing bad will happen" or "your gaskets will blow" from sudden rises in oil pressure as well as the pressure revealing formerly concealed leaks that were blocked by the crud in the motor.


Please don't tell me that I gotta go get my piston rings replaced for a exorbitant amount of money, due to a manufacturing oversight that will cost me thousands of dollars. I did read about buying crate engines from Monkey Wrench Racing, and I took a peek at their website and thought they offer very nice rebuilt used motors with a guarantee that the rings are not crap. But... I am not done finding more economic methods to fix it.
 
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#2
Forgot to mention, before I sign off, I did want to point out I just recently bought a Haynes Repair Manual two days ago.

It told me I can verify the condition of my pistons, and other engine issues (never had a check engine light) by using some sort of cheap vacuum tool. I will need to reread the chapter, since the location of this "extra vacuum stem" was not clear in the instructions. But basically, by putting my car into various driving conditions (rev the engine up between these specified RPMs) and observing the wobble or movement or placement of the gauge I can identify the actual cause of the problem or whether or not my rings and motor are doomed. Like I said before, I need to go back after class in about 10 to 11 hours to double check on this.

Not exactly sure what this device is called so I can buy a cheap one from Harbor Freight but find a valve-stem like object on the right side of the engine (left if you are facing the engine bay) located just above and behind the serpentine belt.
 
#3
Hey everyone, finally got my other pictures sent to my computer so I can upload them. Maybe these additional photos can help. If a admin is available, please merge all three posts into one because the edit button disappeared.

Spark plugs from left to right if you are facing the engine bay, hood up.


Now pictures of the spark plug/coil wells, maybe you can notice something from where the threads are seated

Cylinder Two

Cylinder Three

Cylinder Four


And now, maybe this is relevant or maybe not. My rusted exhaust from the oil pan facing back, catalytic converter is obscured.
 
#4
If it were me... I would just drive it until it completely fell apart. If you really want to fix this you need to rebuild the top of the engine or replace the engine. Here is a link to how to rebuild it and repair the problem with the pistons....
 
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