So a few weeks ago I posted this thread:
http://www.corollaforum.com/showthread.php?t=2639
I had an issue with the parking lights being stuck on with the keys out and all the switches off. After thoroughly going over the diagrams and through the wiring itself, I found that the green wire (solid, no tracers) coming out of the interior fuse box, from the tail light fuse had continuity with ground, but only while the tail light fuse was installed. Basically, this wire was grounding, if and only if the tail light fuse was installed. I came to the conclusion that I had a bad interior fuse box that had a short to ground.
After replacing the interior fuse box with a brand new one from the dealer (only $160, not too bad), I was still experiencing the same problem. After a moment of grimacing, I decided to pull the DRL module from behind the glove box and VIOLA! The lights turned off and the problem was solved. Or so I thought.
I purchased a used DRL module from my local junk yard because the dealer wanted over $300 for one. I plugged it in and sure enough the lights were finally off! The only problem is that now the head lights won't turn on! Wtf!?!
After doing some more testing with my multi-meter, I determined that I'm having a similar issue with shorting through a fuse. This time it's in the small fuse box under the hood. It's the one located directly in front of the main exterior fuse box (not the small one on the core support with the DRL relay). Now what I'm seeing is a short across the terminals for the fuses themselves.
The head light fuse terminals have continuity across them, but only when the other fuse is installed. For example, I read continuity across the terminals for the left head light fuse when the right head light fuse is installed. Conversely, I read open circuit across them (as it should be) when the fuse is removed. The same thing is happening if I measure across the terminals for the right head light fuse while installing/removing the left head light fuse.
The first thing I suspected was a bad (small) exterior fuse box, as it is acting like the bad interior one was. That fuse box costs over $1500 from the dealer because they only sell it with the entire wiring loom. I found it for $50 from the junk, but I don't see any DIN plugs on it and I think it would require me to cut and splice each wire going there. Is there any way that the DRL module that I bought is faulty and creating this condition? Is it more than likely the small fuse box? Is it just a bad wire that I haven't found yet? Please help me! This thing is driving me nuts and any input/feedback would be greatly appreciated.
PS Sorry for the really long post, but I know a lot of times with electrical problems the devil tends to be in the details so I didn't want to leave anything out...
http://www.corollaforum.com/showthread.php?t=2639
I had an issue with the parking lights being stuck on with the keys out and all the switches off. After thoroughly going over the diagrams and through the wiring itself, I found that the green wire (solid, no tracers) coming out of the interior fuse box, from the tail light fuse had continuity with ground, but only while the tail light fuse was installed. Basically, this wire was grounding, if and only if the tail light fuse was installed. I came to the conclusion that I had a bad interior fuse box that had a short to ground.
After replacing the interior fuse box with a brand new one from the dealer (only $160, not too bad), I was still experiencing the same problem. After a moment of grimacing, I decided to pull the DRL module from behind the glove box and VIOLA! The lights turned off and the problem was solved. Or so I thought.
I purchased a used DRL module from my local junk yard because the dealer wanted over $300 for one. I plugged it in and sure enough the lights were finally off! The only problem is that now the head lights won't turn on! Wtf!?!
After doing some more testing with my multi-meter, I determined that I'm having a similar issue with shorting through a fuse. This time it's in the small fuse box under the hood. It's the one located directly in front of the main exterior fuse box (not the small one on the core support with the DRL relay). Now what I'm seeing is a short across the terminals for the fuses themselves.
The head light fuse terminals have continuity across them, but only when the other fuse is installed. For example, I read continuity across the terminals for the left head light fuse when the right head light fuse is installed. Conversely, I read open circuit across them (as it should be) when the fuse is removed. The same thing is happening if I measure across the terminals for the right head light fuse while installing/removing the left head light fuse.
The first thing I suspected was a bad (small) exterior fuse box, as it is acting like the bad interior one was. That fuse box costs over $1500 from the dealer because they only sell it with the entire wiring loom. I found it for $50 from the junk, but I don't see any DIN plugs on it and I think it would require me to cut and splice each wire going there. Is there any way that the DRL module that I bought is faulty and creating this condition? Is it more than likely the small fuse box? Is it just a bad wire that I haven't found yet? Please help me! This thing is driving me nuts and any input/feedback would be greatly appreciated.
PS Sorry for the really long post, but I know a lot of times with electrical problems the devil tends to be in the details so I didn't want to leave anything out...
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