2015 Corolla S HELP! Fuse problem

#1
Hi. Ok, so I read in the forums about the LED lights. So, I put the 5 cluster ones in my reverse lights. One of them must have been bad. Because it shorter out the reverse lights. I learned later that it knocked out a lot of things, including: Power Steering, Odometer, Speedometer, MPG reading, ABS, tracking control, Engine light. This included display lights. I found that under the steering wheel fuse box the 10A ECU-IG NO.2 was the culprit. Now all the fuses under the dash ohm'd out ok. And all the little ones under the hood are ok. But now I still have the engine light on, the traction control light on and the turn signals or hazards don't blink on the inside or outside of the car. But I hear it ticking. Any ideas would be Extremely Appreciated. Oh, and does putting LED bulbs inside and outside of the car VOID the warranty? Thank you.

Todd
 

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#2
Update

The turn signals now work and Hazards. But the cruise doesn't work and I still have the engine light and traction control light lit. Thank you

Todd
 
#3
The turn signals now work and Hazards. But the cruise doesn't work and I still have the engine light and traction control light lit. Thank you

Todd
Cruise control uses a big ass fuse, which as far as I know will need a tester to check. Run over to your local pep boys or auto zone, there is bound to be someone who will help you. A short can fry other smaller circuits. I would recommend you get a cheap OBDII scanner and scan for codes. Also, I would recommend you purchase a power supply to test any future electrical components you might want to use.
Supply:
[ame]http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003EGYRP6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1[/ame]

Banana to Alligator Clips:
[ame]http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002JJU1O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1[/ame]
 
#5
Be cautious. A lot of LEDs that are available out there actually draw MORE power than the OEM incandescent. Pay attention to load ratings and make sure you aren't drawing excessive power.

Glad everything is working now. Hopefully nothing comes back.

Also, in order for LED lights to void your warranty, the dealership has to prove that the LED light caused the defect.

Not sure where you got your bulbs at, but stick with superbrightleds.com, vleds.com, or diodedynamics.com.

For fog LEDs, stick with Nokya or TRS Morimoto.

DJAnnexAlpha has also had success with other brands, but these are the main players in the league and they won't disappoint you (or fry electrical).
 
#6
Hell, I've seen reverse LEDs that draw 50 watts ... that's close to what the headlight uses, way overkill and way above the stock 16 watt rating.
 
#7
Superbrightleds

Thanks for the information. I use the superbrightled. I am a little OCD about the colors of the bulbs for my map lights and some lights not matching. The color is not the same. I wrote to them and they didn't help much. just linked me to the bulbs I already looked at. I like the bright white look. But the dome light isn't the same. I'm dealing with it. Lol
 
#8
Be cautious. A lot of LEDs that are available out there actually draw MORE power than the OEM incandescent. Pay attention to load ratings and make sure you aren't drawing excessive power.

Glad everything is working now. Hopefully nothing comes back.

Also, in order for LED lights to void your warranty, the dealership has to prove that the LED light caused the defect.

Not sure where you got your bulbs at, but stick with superbrightleds.com, vleds.com, or diodedynamics.com.

For fog LEDs, stick with Nokya or TRS Morimoto.

DJAnnexAlpha has also had success with other brands, but these are the main players in the league and they won't disappoint you (or fry electrical).

Agreed. Plus I am an electrical engineer so an electrical problem wouldn't be that difficult for me to diagnose and fix. If you want more knowledge google is always here to help as well as myself and Donabed.
 
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