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You could, but probably easier to find a spare set of jackstands versus a spare that will fit the bolt-pattern of the car. I have two sets. A set of Craftsman professionals that I use when I am under the car, and when I rotate tires I use those and a set of Autozone ones since I don't intend...

Next time rivets do that, find a large drift punch and give them a good whack. That will stop the spinning.

More aftermarket for rear disc brakes as well. Drums are pretty much dead to performance braking companies.

You've got plenty. Just uhhhh ... make sure you have steelies and high profile tires or you'll trash the wheels. Not that I would know or anything ...

LOL! Rally is a blast though. Doing 80 mph on dirt is the same rush as doing 150 on pavement.

Junkyard would be best. You'd need the caliper mounting hardware, the calipers, I'd probably skip on the junkyard rotors and pads and buy those new, the spindles (maybe) and the brake distribution block (that is mounted on the firewall, if you trace the lines from the brake master cylinder you...

Whistling was there the whole time?

:laughing:

That is true. Didn't think about that.

I used to rally the Focus and I've had some fun off-road with my Matrix. Wouldn't dare do it in the Corolla without a set of 16" steelies.

No stickshift Eco ... so S was the natural choice.

Sorry man. Sometimes with oddball stuff like that it is best to leave it to the people that have the equipment.

Low miles, seems like a fair price.

That's the same system I had in my Matrix. Does it automatically show the screen when you go into reverse or do you have to go to AUX Video?

Judging from here and other forums, it seems like this is normal on the LE Eco only. No other Corollas do this, so it has to be for an mpg boost.

That button only sets pressure; it won't re-learn (or store) codes from the TPMS sensors. I'm wondering if he tried it anyway to see if it would work. When the Low Tire Pressure light blinks for a minute and then stays on, it is typically from a faulty TPMS sensor or a sensor with a bad code.

Electronically fuel injected cars don't flood. It isn't even the carburetor that causes flooding, but the accelerator pump on the carburetor that causes flooding (pumping the gas too much when attempting to start the engine). Before anyone can offer advise on here that is practical, we have to...

Test the A/C Compressor Clutch relay, then go from there. Test it before replacing it or things are going to get expensive. If the relay tests good, unplug the electrical going to the clutch, and hook up a multimeter (making sure the belt or fan won't suck up wires), turn on the car, turn the...

Keep us posted so others that swap wheels can see what the fix is.

It shouldn't make a difference. Like I said, when I rotate tires I don't need to relearn. Swapping them between wheels is more or less the same thing.