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I miss living in Reno ... could pick up directly from Summit Racing (off Glendale Avenue) and Tire Rack (off Waltham Way in the boonies of Sparks, used to be across the street from Summit Racing). I spent my high school years hanging out at Summit Racing figuring out ways to blow my paychecks...

It is also possible the plates have sulfated but it seems like too new of a battery for that to happen. When a lead-acid battery goes through several discharge and charge cycles (i.e. running it dead a lot from leaving headlights on), the lead plates get sulfur deposits on them. It will read...

Yup. Valve Timing Control would be too harsh on a belt and would wear it out quickly, so Toyota has blessed us with chain drive.

Some cars have two bearings on the hub. If that is the case, the centerline for the wheel bearings is the half-way point between both bearings.

I worked at American Rim Supply when I first moved down to California. The offset is basically dependent on how far down you cut the chamfer for the lug nuts on the center of the wheel. When we changed offsets, we simply added an offset to the chamfer tool. If we changed wheel patterns, we...

You can center an aftermarket wheel on a hub without the centerline hub adapter, but it puts wear on the wheel studs and can cause them to warp, so it is a good idea to use them if the wheel requires it (some do, some don't). For the wheels spacers, this keeps the pressure from the tire and...

Match the interior perfect. I'd pick up a set for myself if I had the cash, and probably up to a 225 width tire. The centerline hub adapters is different. That keeps the wheel centered on the hub without damaging the wheels studs as you tighten them.

They do great even when you play rough.

I like the top ones. The blue looks awesome!

The middle of the wheel bearing when looking from the top of the car. You want the middle of your wheels and tires to be as close as possible to the middle of your wheel bearing centerline.

Since you are sticking with the same size tire, try to get as close to OEM offset as possible. If you were going to say, a bigger rim, you'd want a slightly higher offset to keep tire centerline to bearing centerline (or you could use spacers if necessary but I do that as a last option, such as...

With a 7" rim, you'd be close to the largest width that wheel will possibly take. Any chance they make it in a 7.5"? That would fit and look better.

Well? LOL! I'm willing to play guinea pig but not on exhaust.

If you go with an 7" wide wheel, you'll need to run a lower pressure. 8" wheel at a higher pressure and it'll be a pain to get seated.

45 is the aspect ratio. That means that the height of the tire's sidewall is 45% of the width of the tire. The tire width is in mm, so you would take the width, divide by 25.4, then subtract 1" to get the recommended wheel width ±0.5" (215 / 25.4) - 1 ≈ 7.5"

Sure you got the right part number and that they were installed as the old ones were? Compare the old one to the new one to make sure you weren't given the wrong part.

That ain't good, LOL! Check your grounds, make sure they are solid.

The most aggressive I have seen is the Teins and they do ~2.5". You might have to bag it and make your own brackets and hardware.

I have my appointment this Saturday. Will ask if it is possible to change the threshold. Otherwise I'll be ordering a junk cluster.