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Rear suspension is not height adjustable. Is it doing this with you parked on a completely level surface and the car completely empty?

I like the hood idea. I wouldn't mind mounting a light there in case I need to check my oil or something at night, but I have a Fenix PD35 flashlight and the little guy is bright. And I mean bright.

Fix it tickets suck and still cost money in some places. I'd get a toggle switch for it.

With aftermarket they have to prove that part specifically caused the issue, so an aftermarket alternator can't void a warranty for a wheel bearing. With TRD you are 100% worry free, so there is no question in the event the issue and aftermarket part are related.

Hard to tell. TRD paints their sway bars, but they are known for quality race parts that are backed by Toyota (and if a dealer installs them, any TRD parts will NOT void the warranty, which is nice). Chances are, they use hardened steel if it is a stiffer-than-stock sway bar. TRD is usually...

Chances are a weight came off. It happens. I've wound my S up to 115 m.p.h. and the car was fine. Also, the tires on the car are more than capable of handling the maximum speed as set by the speed governor. The reason why most cars are speed limited to 115 m.p.h. is because the base tire is...

Sometimes you just have to give the dealership a kick in the ass.

Well, freeway debris can kill them too, especially in SoCal.

Usually cats outlive everything else on the car unless you had a severe issue with running rich or ignition misfires.

Keep us updated. Good luck.

Have the dealer take a look at it. Sounds like something wasn't tightened properly.

Check the tone rings and the sensors around them. Possible it shifted during replacement of the CV shaft. That would trigger the ABS light and disable VSC if the tone rings or the sensors got messed with during replacement.

Just do the upstream sensor. That is the one that adjusts your air/fuel ratio. The downstream sensor only makes sure the catalytic converter is working and nothing more. I only mess with the downstream sensor when it throws a code, upstream I do every 60,000.

Mine doesn't either. Also a 2014 S Plus 6MT. Might need a software update. Going to ask them when I get it in for the 5000 service.

Did you take off any grounds or other electrical?

I did my first oil change at 250 miles. I also babied the car (avoid long drives, sudden starts and stops, avoid staying at the same speed) for 1,000 miles. Keep an eye on your oil too. Engines that are in the process of breaking in WILL consume oil.

193,000 miles, car is definitely due for a sensor and most people don't replace them until they throw lights. Should do it every 60,000 miles for optimum fuel economy.

May take me a while to crack it. They tend to use propietary code to keep things protected but I should be able to reverse engineer it and figure out what object does what.

No, that is a leaking brake master cylinder or leaking caliper. A leaking brake booster is a vacuum leak. It'll cause the brake pedal to be slightly stiffer than normal. A broken IAC will either not rev up during warm-up or stay revved up at all times. If it gets loose, it will cause a vacuum...

Have a friend hold down the throttle for you while you spray around. Another place to look is the brake booster. They age and eventually leak from repeated brake use.