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When the bearing exploded, I'm guessing that the spring pushed the bearing race up against the pressure plate crooked like that, and it was partially disengaging the clutch here and there. That's the only thing I can think of.

It all depends on what you are after, just like with any other car.

Dealer most likely.

Either you remove the spoiler, or you can use a 1/4" wrench to turn a Phillips head driver (the ones that come in the multitool kit).

That is what sucks about aftermarket. They oughta replace it since it is obviously warped.

That is what I hear anyway.

30 days after the paint has been applied, so if you ordered it special made, wait a couple weeks.

Whoops. I was. My mistake.

Man, I got jipped on mine.

Do you have a tachometer? When the Duraspark II module in my '82 GT was starting to nose dive, the car was incredibly difficult to start and when it was running, the engine would completely power off, tach would drop to 0 for a few seconds, then the tach would show engine speed again and the...

Run the engine, then pop the hood and start lightly tugging on wires. If the car starts to freak out when you are tugging on a wire, that is the culprit. Sounds like something may be lose. The ECM doesn't take an hour to get warmed up so I don't think that is it.

The six-speed manual in the Corollas has this exact same throw-out bearing design, that was my primary reason behind getting an extended warranty (I'm sure Toyota did a better job than Ford but I'm skeptical, and I already noticed that when I put the Corolla into first gear from neutral, the car...

The sticker fit this car well. Annnnnd here is the blown up clutch and clutch slave-cylinder/throw-out bearing. Can't say I've ever seen one side of the clutch lose all of its material and the other side is perfectly fine. I'm still wondering how some of the lining wedged itself...

Call around and go with whatever is the cheapest. Sometimes you are better off buying a rebuilt head and it is cheaper. On the other hand, if you know the machinist working on it does good work and warranties, go with him.

Glad it wasn't the pump and glad you got it sorted out.

You can't have cycling voltage without ground. Not possible. He said he has cycling voltage so I'm thinking the clutch crapped itself. Pretty early for that to happen but it does.

Weatherstrip, and yeah, I'd get that taken care of before your doors turn into the house of rust and mold.

Yeouch, but nice job on the repairs!

Same with radiators, even well maintained, with time, oxidation and heat gets the better of them. They usually start to spring leaks at the edges where the solder is. Mine never clogged but they did leak. If yours is leaking, the system never builds up pressure so that could cause a no-heat...

Everything I have seen so far has had the box drilled into something. Only other way would be to remove the trunk panels, set them off to the side, mount your sub, and then swapping the sub for the panels when the lease it up.