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I don't go lower than the low fuel light, ever. For this reason ... and walking to get gas is the pits.

I just want to point out, that when you shake the car and fill it again, you are still stopping at the automatic shut-off. Do not fill past that, or you can damage the evaporative control systems and cause damage to the tank itself.

The clear plastic piece you twist left (facing toward the back of the car), and it pops off. Pull bulb out, put bulb in, then align it back and twist right to lock it in place.

Yeah, and a search has shown others. If it is in warranty ask them to look at the TSB and don't leave until they service it.

Apparently you aren't the only one. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IpPduDAMNR8

I Googled it. There is a TSB out for it. Apparently replacing the Timing Gear Assembly fixes it.

Deval, how does the drive-belt look? Have somebody start the car while you look at it. It is hard to tell without being able to be around it (video can't replicate the direction of the sound) but that could be the problem. My girlfriend has a 2010 that does that every once in a while. I...

Keep in mind that oversteer in a FWD is difficult to control. RWD oversteer can be corrected by letting off the throttle and a steering correction. On a FWD, all you can do is correct the steering and pray that is sufficient.

Those chips aren't worth it. You only see gains from chips on OEM turbo vehicles (since those are limited by computer for reliability and mileage). Naturally aspirated engines with no modifications run at their optimum on the stock trim settings in the PCM.

If the headlights are still on despite removing the relays and fuses, that is not the daylight sensor, that is "I'm a complete jackass and I'm going to re-wire the car because I don't know how to properly fix the problem" They bypassed safety devices and the fuse blowing over and over again...

Clunking while turning is generally a bad CV joint, but my question is, did you use a torque wrench on your suspension parts you replaced?

If they are reading lower than they should be, that could be your problem.

The "multi-purpose" fluid is a joke. Automatic transmissions are incredibly picky on the fluid they have in them. You need to look at the manual and fill it with the fluid that is designed to be in it.

Sounds like the system needs to be bleed. Usually you do it by jacking up the front of the car, and turning the wheel lock to lock until you no longer see bubbles. If the bubbles don't go away, there is a leak somewhere. I'm guessing that when the engine warms up, the system bleeds, and as it...

Next best thing to do would be to disconnect your battery and start resistance checking your coil and your plug wires. It is possible you got stuck with a defective replacement part.

Exactly. Engines built at a factory are machined in a way that allow for a quicker break-in, but not broken in, not even close. When I first drove my car off the lot I instantly got it on the freeway, put the car in 6th, floored it to 80, then let off the throttle down to 50, then throttle...

Yeah, I noticed it did nothing. Might have to go to a dealer and see if they can change it for you.

Yeah ... I dunno about the headlight. I see nothing that suggested the headlight or headlight bucket assembly took a beating. Go down there and ask them to show you what is broken and what they are replacing to make sure they aren't ripping you off.

No problem. Might be a good idea to replace them anyway because of their age and it is tough to know when it was last done (chances are they are factory). If they break, things get ugly quick.

You could be off a tooth on your distributor but you said it only bucks when driving at a steady speed. If you were a tooth off it would idle and run really rough ... if you were 180 off it wouldn't fire at all. Of course, I'm assuming that the distributor has a pinion gear that works off the...