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Alright ... DRL doesn't affect turn signals, but you say it is burned ... unplugging it stopped the issues ... that tells me the DRL module had excess current going through it, which tells me the ground for the DRL module is making contact to the lead with your turn signal and taillights. Man...

Fishy, it is the difference between doing the job correctly and doing it half-assed. If you're gonna make a how-to video, show it getting done accurately and properly, not taking shortcuts and using improper procedures.

No automatic transmission filter? O'Reillys lists them for $16.99 You remove the pan to get to it, filter is right there. Replace filter, replace old pan gasket with included pan gasket, torque bolts to ~12 ft-lb.

So it is around ±1 mpg?

I'm strongly considering one of these. Can think of several scenarios I wish I had one.

Scott, what does the equipment do? Kinda been curious about that for when it comes time to do the transmission fluid on my girl's 2010. Might just leave it to Toyota of Escondido to handle it now that I know I risk underfilling it otherwise.

Fishy, you have errors in your video. 1. Removing the dipstick before the moment you intend to add fluid is risky, especially when working on the car outside. All it takes is some dust to pick up from wind. 2. You should be changing the automatic transmission filter as well, not just doing...

Corrola is front engine front wheel drive. The transaxle is a combination transmission and differential, so you don't have a separate differential.

Corolla Cop has confirmed that it reads high.

DRL is not parking light related at all. Also, the flickering high beam indicator isn't DRL related either.

Check the other relay (DRL relay is headlamps only and the module has nothing to do with parking lights). If the other relay checks out, then you'll need to start tracing wire for opens. (in order to have something stay on at all times, two wires have to lose insulation (both of them leads and...

Check the switch, and for the connector, you can subscribe to the Toyota TIS website for two days and screen shot anything you need relating to that circuit to help you diagnose the problem. However, losing a ground won't make it stay on all the time, losing a ground will make it never turn on.

Taillights are hot at all time so even with the ignition off, they would stay on if you left them on. As far as the turn signals, that is bizarre. Between that and the flickering high beams, I'm guessing you have a defective headlight switch or a stuck relay. Test them before you replace...

Crutchfield will have adapters to make a non-standard system into a Double DIN or single DIN, depending on the size.

Yeah, for that much with those miles it would have to be emmaculate with maintenace records.

Yeah, the second a mecanic says "I think it could be x, y, or z", it's a sign to run. If someone pays me $60 to diagnose either I'll have an answer or refund their money and recommend another mechanic. Most mechanics have a stethoscope or do the vacuum line trick, so he sounded like he was being...

Nice!!!

Let us know how it turns out. I work with computers as well (Computer Science major, one more year to go!). But yeah, tons of questions people ask that could be answered by looking in the manual. And YouTube is awesome for How To's, but sometimes you gotta be careful. I've found a few errors...

Don't get a Toyota one. I'd look at a Pioneer or other systems (Kenwood, etc.) crutchfield.com will tell you everything you will need to install an aftermarket double DIN system in your car, and they throw in the harness, the manual, and the dash kit for free. I always get my gear from them.

1. Find another mechanic that can actually find the problem and not guess. 2. Noise is occurring too slowly to be piston slap or valvetrain issues. 3. Get a vacuum line, and VERY CAREFULLY hold one end to your ear and probe parts with the other end. Suspects will be the idler pulley, the...