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I'm leaving mine alone for now. If I did anything, it would be EBC Brakes all around and a turbo-kit. Everything else would stay stock. Except maybe the speakers.

Rowing my own gears is a blast. You can't launch on an automatic like you can on a manual, although I got my girl's 2010 automatic to spin tires off the line by loading the torque converter. To each and their own. Traffic doesn't bother me. Shifting is second nature to me. I do it without...

Nice. Let us know how it works out.

A friend of mine started having this issue on his Honda CRX after hitting 150,000 miles. Retorqued the bolts to specification and verified the clearance with feeler gauges, and the noise went away. The oil warming up to stop the noise is a mask to the underlying issue. Changing to another oil...

I have the 6MT. Sixth gear keeps the engine nice and low at freeway speeds for noise and mileage (2600 @ 75), and the first five gears make up for the underpowered engine. Also, it is one of the smoothest shifting transmissions I've seen.

Get a nice set of Silverstar bulbs. HID and LEDs are not designed to work in that type of housing and you can blind drivers, as well as make high beams that are actually weaker than with the regular bulb.

Hmmmm. My 2008 Matrix had a recall on the PCM that could cause a hard start condition and other PCM's were recalled. Might be something to look into.

Push down on each corner of the car. If it takes more than two bounces to stop they're shot. Otherwise you are fine (and I'm thinking you need a new mechanic. I've rallied cars and had shocks go longer than that).

He's due on the lifters needing to be torqued. If it was the oil, it would have started occuring sooner. Wouldn't hurt to keep synthetic in it with those miles but letting them slap because of slack is going to wear on the cam lobes.

Why? Blue fog lights can actually make things worse in fog.

Sweet! Thanks. Can an admin sticky this?

Thanks. I wasn't sure if it was RCA or proprietary connections.

Are you sure it is the two front sensors itself and not damaged wiring or damaged module? If it was hit near the ABS module, it's highly likely that soldering points failed on the component and triggered that light. You really need to get the correct module for the car. If it is aftermarket...

That's another thing, he could be trying to bone you out of money. If you don't know what to look for, best getting a second opinion. You won't confuse gear oil with engine oil, so it will be easy to tell.

If you have a full set of tools, you can do it with a service manual or a Chilton's (and it may help to have a knowledgeable friend with you). If it is leaking from the half-shaft seals, the fix is relatively easy, but you'll need to pull the spindle off the car to pull out the half-shaft. If...

25,000 miles? The filter holds up that long? As far as synthetic finding leaks, cleaning the sludge makes sense. Thanks for informing me on that. I've always used synthetic, and on the 2011+ engines, full synthetic is mandatory. (Now it's in the correct thread)

If you use a thicker oil than the engine was designed to use, it may be so thick that it fails to lubricate the tight spots (such as main and connecting rod bearings, cam bearings, etc.) When these components get starved of oil, you'll end up spinning them, at which point the oil hole will...

The rears should bolt up and have plenty of room. The fronts are a pain in the ass. I'm just happy the Corolla has rear deck speakers and not rear door speakers. I'll probably upgrade mine soon. Heard these stereos take well powering a new set of speakers and the sound improvement is...

I love my 2014 S.

I don't think there is anything you can do for the doors/trunk. For the seatbelt, I believe that it cannot be disabled in the 2011 models but check the manual. I may be wrong.