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And yeah, Carfax will not list self-repairs.

That's why I never buy used. I can control the break-in on new and I know the maintenance has been done and nobody has beat it to hell. In fairness, Toyotas are tough. My 2008 Matrix had 75,000 hard miles on it and nothing was wrong with the car, except that it was a base model, and I wanted...

You wouldn't want a Focus (except for the 3rd gens, those are nice). I had a first gen (2003 ZX3) and it was a pile of crap.

Newer stereos that have a touchscreen display usually have a rear-view camera feature. More than likely plug and play but I'm not 100%.

If a motor was using regular dinosaur oil and then synthetic is used later on in the engines life, synthetic will find leaks.

Scott, his is a '98. Probably using regular dinosaur oil or maybe synthetic blend.

Does it get worse or better when braking? If it gets worse, your rotors need to be turned/pads replaced and you have a sticking caliper.

Cam Position Sensor? Hard to tell.

1. Stop listening to people, except the guy that told you to stay away from synthetic. 2. Stop beating up on the car. 3. Fuel pump has nothing to do with oil, did you mean oil pump? 4. Oil light = 0 pressure. If it is flickering, it is a very bad thing. Baby the car, and start saving up...

Funrunner, your oil light going on and off is very bad. When the oil light is on, it means you have 0 oil pressure. Gonna wind up losing the engine if you don't diagnose what is causing it.

Considering that they check things like your brake lining, I'd say very. If cost is the problem, have a friend that knows about cars teach you to do maintenance yourself.

I did the Meguiars Cleaning Kit on my 2008 Matrix. They looked awesome ... for about a year ... then back to yellow. If that happens with my 2014, I'll just replace them. If you opt for the cleaning kit, make sure it has a power drill attachment and use one. The "drill-less" kits suck and...

One quart per 5000 miles is normal ... so for you that would be, more or less, from full to low on the dipstick every 8000 km. Anything else is considered excessive, but if you have to throw in a quart between oil changes you're still in decent shape, just means the oil rings are showing their...

I'm a fan of KYB-GR2 myself. Awesome struts. Yes, I believe the S has different struts from the LE. You'll need a spring compressor and a torque wrench (the torque wrench is important, don't guess on your suspension). If you rent the spring compressor, check the condition of it BEFORE using...

Remove the valve cover and tighten all of the lifters and cam bolts to specification. Get a manual for this, as different manufactures torque lifters differently and too much can cause a valve to smack into a piston. As long as you have oil pressure the pump is fine. Since you changed oil...

You'll have to pull off the interior panels of both doors to pull wiring from the old door before removal and place the wires into the new door after installation. Aside from that you're talking 4 bolts. The locks might be tough to get to if you have big hands. Probably better off sanding the...

If it has been a while since you have done a full tune-up, start there first, then see if things improve. Sounds like the plugs are shot.

Servo control? Do you mean Idle Air Control Solenoid? And very acceleration? What do you mean? Not using the term correctly.

1. 350 is a really low idle. I would say check the tachometer but since the sounds match this, I would say it MIGHT be a bad idle-air control solenoid or a severe EGR leak. If you have a DTC, scan it and see what it is, if not, then check the lower intake manifold where the EGR and IAC are...

You shouldn't be pushing a cold engine, ever (emergency aside). Engines have slight blow-by when they are cold because of the way pistons are machined, and pushing it can fry the rings early. There is no safety other than redline. If the engine isn't getting above 3000 rpms, it could be a...